FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

A/C SYSTEMS

Our A/C & Heater Duct Cleaner (part #17900) cleans and deodorizes automotive air conditioning systems, including the vents, ducts, evaporator core, and drain pan. It effectively eliminates odors caused by mold, mildew, stale air and smoke while providing a clean, fresh scent.

There is no real good answer here, as they come in multiple colors. In most cases they are black, but they can be grey, blue or red. Some service port caps are marked with an “H” or an “L” to distinguish between the high and low ports.

Vent temperature will vary based on ambient temperature and heat load on the vehicle. The warmer and sunnier it is outside, the harder your vehicle’s A/C system has to work to make cool air. Generally speaking, in a properly operating system, your vent air temperature should be 20°–40°F cooler than the outside air temperature.

ARCTIC FREEZE

Arctic Freeze® Ultra Synthetic is a patented R-134a refrigerant that’s been chemically formulated and designed to enhance the performance of A/C systems. It contains advanced QwikBoost® chemistry to provide more efficient cooling.

Arctic Freeze® products also contain acid neutralizers, leak sealers and O-ring conditioners. The active chemistry in Arctic Freeze® Ultra Synthetic allows R-134a refrigerant to carry more heat. When it reaches the evaporator in a vehicle’s A/C system, the active chemistry causes the R-134a to come out of the solution and increases the system’s cooling capacity, which means your car cools faster! Arctic Freeze® contains R-134a refrigerant and is compatible with all R-134a systems.

The active chemistry in Arctic Freeze® Ultra Synthetic allows R-134a refrigerant to carry more heat. When it reaches the evaporator in a vehicle’s A/C system, the active chemistry causes the R-134a to come out of the solution and increases the system’s cooling capacity, which means your car cools faster!

Yes, Arctic Freeze® contains R-134a refrigerant and is compatible with all R-134a systems. Arctic Freeze® products also contain acid neutralizers, leak sealers and O-ring conditioners.

COMPRESSORS

In order to prepare a new compressor for installation, you will need to prime it. If you do not prime the compressor properly, you could seriously damage it and void the warranty on the product. Priming a compressor consists of adding oil to both the receiver/drier and the suction port of the compressor. Before starting, you will need to know the oil capacity of your system and your compressor. You can check here to get the system specs for your specific vehicle.

Once you have determined the proper amount of lubricant for your particular compressor, pour half of the amount specified into the suction port of the compressor and the other half of the specified amount into the receiver/drier.

Once you have installed the compressor back onto your car, you will need to rotate the compressor clutch 10–20 times to ensure that the oil is properly distributed throughout the system and the compressor. To do this, you will need a spanner wrench.

Do not turn the compressor nut in the middle of the pulley, as this may affect the air clearance between the clutch pulley and the clutch faceplate. After you have made 10–20 complete revolutions with the pulley, the compressor will be properly primed.

You can tell if your compressor is cycling on and off by looking at the clutch (or belt pulley) at the front of the compressor. The center of this clutch should be spinning when the compressor cycles on. Please note that the pulley itself will always spin while the center of the clutch may not.

If the compressor is engaging, the center of the compressor clutch will turn along with the outer pulley. If the pulley does not turn and there is a loud squeal, this usually indicates a locked-up compressor. The compressor and drier will need to be replaced. Here is a video showing a compressor that is running properly.

If the refrigerant charge is low, the low-pressure cutout or low-pressure cycling switch can prevent the clutch from engaging. Adding refrigerant should alleviate the problem.

HOSES AND GAUGES

Follow these steps to recharge your car. Remember to always wear safety glasses and gloves when recharging your vehicle’s A/C.

1. Determine the ambient (outside) temperature before starting to charge your car. If the ambient temperature is 55°F or below, do not charge the car. To determine the proper pressure of your car’s A/C, set the bezel on the pressure gauge to the outside temperature. If your gauge does not have a bezel dial with the corresponding temperature and pressure, consult a pressure temperature chart. After determining the proper pressure for your A/C system, charge to that pressure.

2. Locate the low-pressure service port. Important note: Never use the high-side port to add refrigerant. Doing so is dangerous and could cause you harm. If you are having trouble locating your low-side port, try using our low-side port locator. If you still cannot find your low-side port, locate the large-diameter aluminum line coming from the back of your car’s compressor. The low-side port will be located somewhere along that line. Still can’t find the low-side port? Give our customer support line a call at 1-888-318-5454.

3. Remove the service cap from the low-side port and wipe any dust from the port with a clean rag. Attach the charging hose to the low-side port. Tug gently on the hose to insure a snug connection. Note: The hose will only connect to the low-side port fitting. If the hose does not easily attach, you are trying to attach it to the wrong port.

4. Turn the handle clockwise until it will not turn anymore. This extends the piercing needle into the top of the can.

5. Turn the handle counterclockwise to start the product flowing. By turning the handle counterclockwise, the piercing pin retracts from the top of the can, allowing the product to escape. To check the pressure, close the valve by turning it clockwise until it will not turn anymore. Remember: Turning the handle so that it travels up is “open”, and turning it so that it travels downward is “closed.”

6. Keep the can in the upright position when dispensing product. Rotate the can between the 12 o’clock and 2 o’clock positions when charging. It is important to stop every 30–45 seconds to take a pressure reading on the system to prevent overcharging the system.

7. When the A/C is charged to the proper pressure, close the valve on the top of the can and remove the charging hose from the low-side port. Replace the sealing cap on the low-side port. Store any remaining refrigerant in a cool dry spot in your garage.

Follow these steps to recharge your car. Remember to always wear safety glasses and gloves when recharging your A/C.

1. Determine the ambient (outside) temperature before starting to charge your car. If the ambient temperature is 55°F or below, do not charge the car. To determine the proper pressure of your car’s A/C, set the bezel on the pressure gauge to the outside temperature. If your gauge does not have a bezel dial with the corresponding temperature and pressure, consult a pressure temperature chart. After determining the proper pressure for your A/C system, charge to that pressure.

2. Locate the low-pressure service port. Important note: Never use the high side port to add refrigerant. Doing so is dangerous and could cause you harm. If you are having trouble locating your low-side port, try using our low-side port locator. If you still cannot find your low-side port, locate the large-diameter aluminum line coming from the back of your car’s compressor. The low-side port will be located somewhere along that line. Still can’t find the low side port? Give our customer support line a call at 1-888-318-5454.

3. Remove the service cap from the low-side port and wipe any dust from the port with a clean rag. Attach the charging hose to the low-side port. Tug gently on the hose to ensure a snug connection. Note: The hose will only connect to the low-side port fitting. If the hose does not easily attach, you are trying to attach it to the wrong port.

4. Squeeze the handle to start the product flowing.

5. Keep the can in the upright position when dispensing product. Rotate the can between the 12 o’clock and 2 o’clock positions while you are charging. It is important to stop every 30–45 seconds to take a pressure reading on the system to prevent overcharging it.

6. When the A/C is charged to the proper pressure, remove the charging hose from the low-side port and leave the trigger mechanism on top of the can. Replace the service cap on the low-side port. Store any remaining refrigerant in a cool, dry spot in your garage.

The blue bezel turns on the gauge so that you can set the pressure range as it relates to the outside temperature. Here is how it works: Determine the outside temperature around your car. Turn the bezel so that the arrow points to the outside temperature. Notice the “V” shape on the dial.

This is the appropriate pressure range based on the ambient (outside) temperature. When reading the pressure, if the arrow is below the range, then charge the car until the needle on the pressure gauge is within the range. If it is above the upper end of the range, your system is overcharged. In this case, you should seek the help of a qualified technician to recover refrigerant from your system to bring the system back into the proper range. Never vent A/C refrigerant into the atmosphere. It is harmful to the environment and illegal to do so.

HYBRIDS

If you have a fully electric compressor, you can use ONLY straight refrigerant and ONLY approved hybrid vehicle lubricant. You cannot use any products which contain additives that have not been specifically formulated for use in hybrid vehicles. Our HYB-1 and HYB-2 meet the OEM criteria for hybrid A/C lubricants.

LEAK DETECTION

Yes, the dye will continue to work in the same way.

Automotive A/C systems are closed systems that are subject to harsh weather and road conditions. Your A/C has plenty of places for leaks to occur in metal components like the condenser, evaporator, accumulator or receiver/drier, as well as in the rubber components: hoses, O-rings and gaskets. The refrigerant in your vehicle’s system only gets lower because the system has developed a small leak, which over time, causes you to feel warmer air blowing from the vents. Typically, refrigerant leaks occur in cars that are over five years old because the rubber O-rings and gaskets that seal the different components of the system have become brittle and dried out, allowing the refrigerant in the system to leak past them.

The best way to find leaks is with our R-134a UV Leak Detection Kit (part #436) which provides UV dye, high-intensity UV light and yellow-tinted protective glasses.

Yes. The dye will not affect A/C performance.

LEAK SEALERS

Super Seal is safe for all A/C components and recovery equipment. When refrigerant is removed by recycling equipment, leak sealers, as a liquid, are separated from the refrigerant and extracted with the waste oil. It is then discarded along with the waste oil.

Any leak fixed by Super Seal during a recharge will create a permanent bond that will not leak from that point again. In addition, Super Seal will continue to flow through the A/C system as a lubricant and seal any new leaks that may develop, which makes it great for preventative maintenance.

One can of Super Seal is all you need to seal pinhole-sized leaks in your system. In order to determine the size of your leak, use the following rule of thumb: your car must be able to hold a refrigerant charge for at least two weeks. If your car can hold a charge for two weeks before blowing warm again, then Super Seal will be able to patch your leak. If your vehicle is losing a refrigerant charge in less than two weeks, then you have a large leak and using two cans of Super Seal will not help. In this case, you should seek the help of a qualified technician.

While in the air conditioning system, it remains a liquid lubricant and contains additives to penetrate and rejuvenate O-rings, gaskets, and other rubber connectors to prevent leakage. Included in Super Seal is a drying agent that gets rid of any moisture that may be inside the air conditioner. If the refrigerant leak occurs in a metal component, the refrigerant leaves the system and chills the outside air, resulting in condensation. This moisture activates the Super Seal fluid to form a scab on the exterior of the metal.

For help on how to use Super Seal, watch our step-by-step instructional video.

Super Seal has sealed leaks in over one million vehicles since it’s introduction in early 2000. This moisture-activated sealant technology has long been used in the gas transfer industry, sealing leaks in pipes, tanks, and other gas-filled containers.

One can of Super Seal is all you need to seal pinhole-sized leaks in your system. However, if the system cannot hold a charge for 24 hours, the leak is too large and probably needs manual repair. If the system is leaking slowly and holds a charge for more than two weeks, Super Seal should seal the leak. Super Seal will seal multiple holes in both the metal and rubber components of the air conditioning system.

There is enough Super Seal in a single application to seal multiple holes in both the metal and rubber parts of the air conditioning system.

Super Seal has a lower boiling point than the refrigerant oil. This enables the Super Seal to be removed from the system as the refrigerant either leaks out or is removed.

The leak sealer will take effect within one day of installation.

It, of course, depends on the nature of the leak, but typically leaks are sealed for approximately 12 months of A/C usage.

Yes. Our “System Safe” leak sealer is a gentle O-ring conditioner that does not destroy O-rings. The leak sealer works to rejuvenate and condition your O-rings. There is no deterioration over time.

Yes, and our leak sealers are specially formulated to gently rejuvenate your O-rings without damaging them.

Your system will leak less refrigerant than it did previously. You cannot find a leak with the UV light that was there previously. Your system continues to blow cold air.

In this case, you should seek the help of a qualified technician.

Our R-134a Super Seal (#325) seals leaks in metal components (i.e., condensers, evaporators, accumulators and receiver/driers). It also seals leaks in rubber parts (i.e., hoses, O-rings, gaskets). It works by swelling the rubber in these components to close the holes. Note: Use (R-12 Super Seal #326) for R-12 systems. Our R-134a Stop Leak & Detector (LDS-1) seals leaks in rubber parts, including O-rings, hoses, and gaskets, and includes O-ring conditioners.

No. The chemical formulation remains in a liquid state inside the A/C system until it detects moisture at the leak point and self-seals. Super Seal contains a drying agent to prevent any sealing activity while in the system. Super Seal will be removed from the system with the refrigerant as it either leaks out or is removed.

No. Super Seal contains a drying agent to prevent any moisture in the filter/drier from congealing. However, it is highly recommended that the filter/drier be changed any time the air conditioner is open for repairs. This improves cooling, and prevents wear and tear on other air conditioner parts. It is also recommended that refrigerant be added right after adding Super Seal so that it may be dispersed throughout the entire air conditioner.

No. The system must be retrofitted first.

LUBRICANTS

For retrofitting and top-offs, use our products that include polyol ester oil. When rebuilding a system that has been opened and flushed, use a pourable PAG oil of the viscosity that is recommended by the compressor manufacturer.

When an A/C system leaks refrigerant, some oil escapes as well. Our top-off products all have the proper ratio of oil to refrigerant already blended to replace the lost oil.

RECHARGING

YES! This is one of the easiest jobs that you can do yourself on your vehicle. If you’d like to see how simple and easy the process is, please head on over to our video section to watch our how-to videos. And as always, if you have any questions, please feel free to call our customer support line at 888-318-5454 for assistance.

You need to wear gloves for a couple of reasons. First, as you release refrigerant from the can into your vehicle’s A/C system, the can will become very cold to the touch. In addition, you are working around the vehicle as it is running, and there will be hot surfaces that could possibly burn you. So in order to protect your hands from the cold can and possible burns, it is always recommended that you wear cloth-lined gloves, and don’t forget your safety eyewear.

If you are constantly adding refrigerant to your system, you have a leak. If your car is more than five years old, then chances are that the O-rings and gaskets have become brittle and inelastic, causing small leaks throughout the system. Adding a refrigerant with a leak sealer and O-ring conditioner will help to correct this problem.

Not only is overcharging your system potentially dangerous, an overcharged system will not function properly and can seriously damage your A/C compressor or other component parts. The symptom of an overcharged A/C system is exactly the same as a system that is undercharged: warm air coming out of the vents.

In order to prevent overcharging your A/C system, it is imperative that you measure the pressure before beginning to charge it. To measure the pressure in the A/C system, attach a pressure gauge to the low-side port. Your car must be running with the A/C system set to maximum cool and the fan at its highest setting. It is important to note that the proper pressure in your A/C system is dependent on the ambient (outside) temperature. To determine the proper pressure for your system, consult a pressure chart, or set the bezel arrow on your pressure gauge to the corresponding ambient temperature and charge to the pressure corresponding to that temperature setting. If the outside temperature is at or below 55°F, do not charge your car. Also, never charge your vehicle above 55 psi.

There are a number of possibilities. Your compressor may be damaged and not working properly. You can check to see if it is cycling on and off properly by looking at the clutch faceplate in the middle of the compressor pulley. Watch this video of a compressor that is cycling on and off properly. If your compressor is not cycling on, then you should seek the help of an A/C professional immediately. Ignoring the problem will not make it go away and, in fact, it could make matters worse. Other possible causes are blown relays and fuses, defective sensors or a stuck blend door. Seek the help of an A/C professional to assist you in determining the cause in your particular case.

The most common reasons for the pressure gauge to indicate a red/high-pressure reading are the car is not running, or the A/C is not on with the fan switch set to high and the temperature at its coldest setting. In order to obtain an accurate pressure reading, the car must be running, the A/C set to the coldest position and the fan set to high. Also, as the car’s compressor cycles on and off, the needle on the gauge will move in and out of the red/high-pressure area of the gauge. This is normal. Watch this video to see an example of a car compressor cycling on and off.

No. Not only is it harmful to the environment to vent refrigerant into the atmosphere, it is also illegal. Violation of this federal law may carry a fine of up to $25,000. If you need to recover refrigerant from your system, please seek the help of a qualified service technician.

When you overcharge your system, a pressure cut-off switch is activated to stop your A/C compressor from running. This, in turn, will cause your system to blow warm air. If this happens, you will need to go to a certified professional and have the excess refrigerant recovered from your system. Remember, it is illegal to vent refrigerant from your system, and the government can impose stiff fines for failure to follow these rules.

The low-pressure service valve (sometimes called the low-side port) is located in the line that runs from the compressor through the evaporator (firewall) and up to the condenser on the low-pressure (suction) side of the system. R-134a recharge hoses will fit only on the low-pressure service valve on all R-134a vehicles and R-12 vehicles that have been converted to R-134a. If you don’t know where your low-pressure port is, you can try using our low-pressure port locator.

Your system should be vacuumed if you have replaced a component part in the system, or if the pressure gauge indicates that the A/C system pressure is lower than 10 psi.

When checking low-side pressure, you will get two different pressure readings, one when the compressor cycles on and one when the compressor cycles off. Use the pressure reading when the compressor is cycled on and the system is operating at its highest settings (temp to MAX cold and fan on high). When the compressor cycles on, you should see the needle on your pressure gauge begin to drop. When the compressor turns off, you will see the needle move back to a higher pressure. Take the reading that occurs when the pressure is at its lowest point, when the compressor is cycled on. To tell if your compressor is cycling properly, take a look at this following video.

Ambient temperature is simply the temperature of the air surrounding the car. For instance, if the ambient temperature (outdoor temperature) is 75°F, the corresponding low-side pressure should be between 35–45 psi and if needed, the corresponding high-side pressure would be between 150–170 psi. Our automotive A/C chart outlines the proper pressure readings for a particular temperature range.

Dispense refrigerant gas in 15 second increments, and check pressure and vent temperature at each interval. You should expect to hold the charging lever in for a total of at least one minute to get approximately one 12-ounce can installed (outside temperature and vehicle condition will affect this time).

Refrigerants

It is possible that you will completely recharge your system without using the full can of refrigerant. In this case, after disconnecting from the port, simply leave the gauge and hose assembly connected to the can, and store it in a cool, dry location for later use.

A High Mileage refrigerant contains a proprietary formulation of lubricant enhancers that helps your old compressor run easier. This will help make the compressor last longer and run quieter. It contains special anti-wear and lubricant additives to restore an older A/C system’s performance.

ICE 32® is a performance enhancer that is added to some of our lubricants and oil charges. It reduces friction, which cuts down wear on metal parts and seals – extending compressor life. It helps to keep the compressor clean, and prevents oxidation and acid formation. It also cuts humidity – meaning it keeps air drier to help improve cabin comfort.

No. You cannot mix R-12 and R-134a. If you have an R-12 system that you would like to repair, you will need to use our retrofit kit to make it compatible with R-134a refrigerant. Retrofitting a system is much easier than you think, and we have detailed instructions and a video to guide you through the process. If you are still not sure and would like more information about retrofitting your system, call our customer support line at 888-318-5454.

No. Your car’s A/C refrigerant never goes bad. Nor do you “use up” the refrigerant that is in your system. If your vehicle’s A/C system pressure is low, your vehicle has a refrigerant leak and that leak will need to be repaired in order for your system to hold refrigerant. If your vehicle is able to maintain a charge for a period of two weeks or longer, then it is possible to seal the leak with sealant such as Super Seal. If your system will not hold a charge for at least a two-week period, then it is advisable to seek professional assistance to find and repair the leak.

The answer here is twofold. It is possible that the system has a small leak, and now is low on refrigerant. This will allow the system to blow cold, but just not as cold as it has before. In this case, check the low-side pressure and verify if the system is low on refrigerant. If it is low on refrigerant, add refrigerant or a refrigerant with a Stop Leak to the correct pressure.

If your pressure is correct, adding additional refrigerant will not make the system blow out colder air, but will, in fact, cause the system to become overcharged. This causes the system to work less efficiently and will result in warmer air blowing from the vents.

We recommend using a pressure gauge to determine an accurate fill. Without knowing what your system’s pressure is, you could easily overcharge the system, causing warm air to blow from the vents and causing damage to your A/C system. Our color-coded pressure gauges indicate whether you should continue filling (charging) or not, making the recharge process an easy one.

Retrofitting

Recharging an R-12 system has become price prohibitive. If your old R-12 system needs repairs or has lost refrigerant, the timing could be right for you to convert your system from R-12 to R-134a using one of our retrofit kits.

Please click here to view the R-134a oil specs by vehicle make.

No. There are two reasons for choosing aluminum. Firstly, the service port that the valve is being screwed onto is made of aluminum. If you are putting steel on an aluminum port, you run a greater risk of stripping the port, a costly repair. Secondly, different metals expand and contract at different temperatures. By using different metals, there is a greater risk of leakage due to weather-related expansion and contraction.

An open system retrofit is when the air conditioner system is opened, allowing air to enter the system. This is necessary if there are to be any repairs made at the time the retrofit is performed. Once the system is opened, the accumulator or filter/drier should be replaced and a vacuum pulled before adding the refrigerant. A closed system retrofit is made when no repairs are necessary and the air conditioner is not opened. Following the EPA procedures, the R-12 refrigerant is removed (it must be reclaimed), and new oil, fittings, R-134a refrigerant, and a label are added.

The EPA states that the “procedures required for a least-cost retrofit are simple and do not require major component changes. Generally, the process calls for the removal of the oil refrigerant, installation of new fittings and a new label and the addition of either a polyalkylene glycol (PAG) or polyol ester (POE or Ester) lubricant as well as the R-134a refrigerant.”

Check out this video “How to Retrofit a System”.

Since the refrigerant carries the lubricant throughout the system, the oil must be soluble with the refrigerant or it will remain in the bottom of the air conditioner. There are two recommended oils, polyalkylene glycol (PAG) and polyol ester (Ester). Both are soluble in R-134a, either will give acceptable lubrication, and both are also compatible with the existing mineral oil.

No. The mineral oil in an R-12 system is compatible with either PAG or Ester oil. The original equipment manufacturers have chosen to outfit all new R-134a vehicles with PAG oil. Therefore, since PAG oil is the new OEM standard, our Retrofit kits use PAG oil. These additives enable the system to use the existing mineral oil.

No. It is not necessary to flush before retrofitting. The decision on whether or not to flush should be made on other mechanical requirements (i.e., compressor failure, contamination, etc.), not on retrofitting.

No. Our retrofit kit contains special conversion additives that allow the existing mineral oil to be compatible with the R-134a and PAG oil, so it does not need to be removed. You can see all of our retrofit products here.

No. Federal law prohibits topping off an R-12 system with a different refrigerant.

SYSTEM FLUSH

A system should be flushed when repairs are being done and the system is opened to the air. However, if a “closed system” retrofit is being performed and the system is not opened, no flushing is required to remove contaminants.

A POE (or polyol ester)-based flush is a safer, more effective A/C system flush than the more common Terpene-based or solvent flush. POE based flushes have a higher flash point, no offensive odor, and will not harm system components. Any trace that is left behind is compatible with the air conditioner’s component parts, POE or PAG lubricant, and is miscible with R-134a refrigerant.

Most OEMs do not recommend flushing procedures. There are many components that cannot be flushed, such as the compressor, receiver/drier, expansion device and, in many cases, the condenser. We recommend that you seek professional help when attempting to flush an A/C system.

AC BASICS

Our A/C & Heater Duct Cleaner (part #17900) cleans and deodorizes automotive air conditioning systems, including the vents, ducts, evaporator core, and drain pan. It effectively eliminates odors caused by mold, mildew, stale air and smoke while providing a clean, fresh scent.

There is no real good answer here, as they come in multiple colors. In most cases they are black, but they can be grey, blue or red. Some service port caps are marked with an “H” or an “L” to distinguish between the high and low ports.

Vent temperature will vary based on ambient temperature and heat load on the vehicle. The warmer and sunnier it is outside, the harder your vehicle’s A/C system has to work to make cool air. Generally speaking, in a properly operating system, your vent air temperature should be 20°–40°F cooler than the outside air temperature.